Toronto is Canada’s biggest city and one of the most diverse places on earth, and that shows up in the best way at the table and in the neighborhoods. I have been and done the whole classic circuit, the tower, the islands, the historic districts, and it rewards knowing how to move through it. Here is how I would spend your time, plus the Niagara side trip almost everyone pairs with it.
Start with the icon. The CN Tower defines the skyline, and going up for the view over the city and Lake Ontario is the classic first move, glass floor and all. It anchors the downtown and is an easy walk from the waterfront and the ballpark.
A short ferry from downtown, the Toronto Islands are a car-free escape of parkland, beaches, and bike paths, and they give you the single best skyline view looking back at the city. On a warm day it is the perfect half-day, and a side of Toronto many visitors miss.
The Distillery District is a beautifully restored Victorian-era neighborhood of red-brick lanes, now full of galleries, cafes, boutiques, and restaurants, all pedestrian-only. It is one of the prettiest corners of the city and especially magical if you catch its holiday market in winter.
Two neighborhoods, two totally different moods. Kensington Market is bohemian and eclectic, vintage shops, street art, and a global jumble of food stalls and cafes. Yorkville is the opposite, chic and upscale, with designer boutiques, galleries, and smart restaurants. Doing both gives you the full range of the city.
Toronto’s diversity is its superpower for eating, some of the best Chinese, Indian, Italian, Caribbean, and Middle Eastern food in North America, plus St. Lawrence Market for a classic peameal bacon sandwich. One honest note: for the definitive poutine, that is really a Quebec specialty, and I had my best in Montreal. You will find good poutine in Toronto, but if it is a mission for you, save the craving for Montreal.
Almost everyone pairs Toronto with Niagara Falls, about an hour and a half away. It is a popular day trip, but honestly it is a lot to do in a day, so I usually suggest staying overnight, especially since the Canadian side is a fun, mini-Las-Vegas kind of town. I break down which side to see, whether the boat season matters, and how to fold it in without exhausting yourselves in the Niagara Falls guide.
The part people underestimate. In summer the ferry to the Islands can mean a one to two hour line without the right timing, and pairing Toronto with Niagara means juggling which side to see, the seasonal boat window, an international border, and whether to stay over. None of it is hard once it is planned, and all of it goes sideways when it is not, which is where I come in.
Toronto is at its best from late spring through early fall, when the patios, islands, and festivals are in full swing; winters are cold but the Distillery District’s holiday market is a treat. I match the neighborhoods and food to your taste, time the Niagara add-on so it is a pleasure rather than a slog, and can extend the trip to Montreal for a fuller Canada itinerary.
A local’s picks for hotels, Old San Juan food and bars, El Yunque, and the islands.
Read the guide →Parrandas, coquito, Three Kings Day, and the island’s months-long Christmas.
Read the guide →Region by region, from Casa de Campo to Punta Cana, Las Terrenas, and Santo Domingo.
Read the guide →