Puerto Rico: A Local’s Guide to the Island I Call Home

I grew up doing what we call internal tourism, piling into the car and driving two or three hours across the island and back in a single day just to explore a different beach, hike a different mountain, chase a waterfall, or catch the ferry somewhere new. That is Puerto Rico to me. It is not an all-inclusive-resort kind of place, at least not only, you can absolutely lounge for a week, but there are better islands for that. Puerto Rico is for exploring, with a day or two of beach in between. And the people: everyone is warm and welcoming no matter who you are or where you come from, which is honestly the biggest difference between coming here and going somewhere else. I am a proud boricua based in Miami who still spends her summers on the island, so this is the guide I actually give my friends.

Where to stay

The right hotel depends on what you want and your budget. A few I love and recommend:

• Ritz-Carlton Reserve, Dorado Beach, barefoot luxury, rainforest spa, and oceanfront villas, the top of the island.
• Four Seasons, polished, service-forward luxury.
• Hotel El Convento, a historic former convent in the heart of Old San Juan.
• El Palacio Provincial & Condado Vanderbilt, elegant, design-forward stays.
• AC Marriott, a smart, well-located pick for a smaller budget.
• El Conquistador (Fajardo), resort living with its own private island, Palomino, you can spend the whole day on.

Tell me how you like to travel and your budget, and I will match you to the right one.

Old San Juan: eat, drink, explore

For brunch: Chocobar Cortés (a chocolate-house institution, I don’t even like chocolate and I still send everyone there), St. Germain Bistro & Bar, La Mallorquina, and Caficultura.

For snacks: a piragua (shaved-ice snow cone) near El Morro is a staple, my order is crema and frambuesa mixed. And Señor Paleta for famous gourmet popsicles.

For a night out: La Factoría is the most famous, four bars in one, cocktails up front and dancing in the back. Mezzanine for great cocktails, El Batey for the legendary dive bar, and La Taberna del Lúpulo for craft beer.

Beyond the city: Fajardo, El Yunque & the islands

• Kayak the bioluminescent bay in Fajardo, one of the brightest in the world.
• El Yunque rainforest for the waterfalls, and stop at the Kioscos de Luquillo on the way, order the alcapurrias (my favorite snack of all time).
• Culebra & Vieques, the islands most tourists miss because of the logistics. I steer clients to a yacht or catamaran to truly feel island living. Locals do it especially during “Christmas in July” (the third week of July), essentially island-hopping like the BVIs by boat.

A few more restaurants I love around the island: Santaella, Wilo’s, and Bottles.

When to go

It is summer year-round, but the sweet spot is January through April, when the humidity and heat are more manageable. Summer is low season because it is hurricane season, you can still go, just be ready for the possibility of a change in plans. And my favorite time of all? Christmas, and it is so good it gets its own guide.

Why plan Puerto Rico with me

I am not reading this off a brochure, I grew up here, my family is here, and I still spend my summers on the island. I know the difference between the postcard and the real thing, and I plan it around you: the right hotel, the days worth exploring, and the day or two just to lounge. As your travel advisor I book it all with VIP recognition at the hotels above, and I plan every step in English or Español.