Machu Picchu: The Adventure of a Lifetime

Machu Picchu is one of those places that lives up to every bit of the hype, and reaching it is half the magic. I did it the adventurous way, a four-day trek along the Salkantay route, and it was one of the most rewarding trips of my life. Whether you want to earn the view on foot or arrive in comfort by train, here is how I would plan Peru.

The Salkantay trek

The Salkantay is the wilder, more dramatic alternative to the classic Inca Trail, and it does not require the hard-to-get Inca Trail permit. Over four days you climb to the Salkantay Pass at around 15,000 feet, beneath glaciers and snow peaks, then descend through cloud forest toward Machu Picchu. Up at the top you are in real snow, and one of my favorite surprises was getting to do a little snowboarding at that altitude. It is genuinely challenging and genuinely unforgettable, the kind of trip you talk about forever. You can do it rugged, or these days with surprisingly comfortable lodges along the way.

Machu Picchu itself

Nothing prepares you for the first sight of the citadel. Time your visit for the light, consider adding the climb up Huayna Picchu for the classic view down over the ruins, and let a great guide bring the Inca history to life.

Cusco and the Sacred Valley

Most trips begin in Cusco, the beautiful former Inca capital, and it is essential to spend a couple of days there first to acclimatize to the altitude (coca tea helps). From there, the Sacred Valley, with sites like Ollantaytambo and Pisac, is stunning in its own right, and Peruvian cuisine, from ceviche to lomo saltado, is some of the best in the world.

Rainbow Mountain

One more unforgettable add-on is Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca), the striped, technicolor peak a few hours from Cusco. It is its own high-altitude day trip, separate from the Sacred Valley, and a demanding one at over 16,000 feet, but the surreal bands of color look like nowhere else on earth. It is worth acclimatizing well before you attempt it.

When to go, and the altitude

The dry season, roughly May through September, is best for trekking and clear views. Build in time in Cusco or the Sacred Valley to acclimatize before any hike, altitude is the one thing you should never rush.

The ways to do it

There is no road straight to Machu Picchu, so everyone arrives one of two ways, and I plan all of them:

• On foot, the way I did it. The Salkantay, or the classic Inca Trail (which needs a permit booked months ahead), delivers you to the citadel having truly earned the view.
• By train, the comfortable way. A scenic train runs from the Sacred Valley to the base town; the Vistadome has glass roofs for the scenery, and the Belmond Hiram Bingham is the full luxury experience, with fine dining and live music on board.
• By private transport plus train, my pick for a seamless luxury trip. A private guide and driver take you through the Sacred Valley to the train at Ollantaytambo, so you see the Inca sites along the way, then the train and a short bus carry you up to Machu Picchu.

Where to stay near Machu Picchu

Let me be transparent about the base town, Aguas Calientes (also called Machu Picchu Pueblo). It is a small, touristy town at the foot of the mountain, honestly not the prettiest, but staying there the night before lets you be among the first up to the ruins in the morning. Lodging ranges from simple guesthouses to lovely properties like the Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel. For the ultimate splurge, the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge is the only hotel right at the citadel’s entrance, steps from the gate, at a price to match. I will match the stay to your budget and to how early you want to beat the crowds.

Why plan Peru with me

Peru takes real planning: altitude, permits and timing, the right trek operator or luxury train, and guides who make the history sing. I arrange it through my trusted local partners on the ground, matched to how hard you want to work for that view. It is a bucket-list honeymoon or milestone trip, and because it is a long-haul flight, it is worth reading whether business class is worth it for the journey over.